I've seen enough "loading fails" videos on YouTube to know that picking the right side by side truck ramps is the difference between a great weekend and a very expensive repair bill. We've all been there—standing at the edge of the tailgate, looking at a 1,500-pound machine and wondering if those old wooden planks in the garage are going to hold up. Spoiler alert: they probably won't.
If you're moving a UTV or a SxS, you're dealing with a lot more weight and a much wider stance than a standard ATV. It's not just about getting the machine from the ground to the bed; it's about doing it without bottoming out, slipping, or having a ramp kick out from under you. Let's get into what actually makes a set of ramps worth your money and why you shouldn't just grab the cheapest thing you find online.
Why Weight Ratings Actually Matter
The first thing you've got to look at is the weight capacity. It sounds obvious, but you'd be surprised how many people look at the "dry weight" of their machine and think they're good to go. Your side-by-side might be rated at 1,200 pounds on the spec sheet, but by the time you add a full tank of gas, a winch, some aftermarket cages, your tools, and a cooler full of ice, you're looking at a much heavier beast.
When you're shopping for side by side truck ramps, look for a capacity that gives you a healthy cushion. If your rig weighs 1,600 pounds fully loaded, don't buy 1,500-pound ramps. Most high-quality aluminum ramps are rated for 2,000 to 3,000 pounds as a pair. That extra overhead isn't just for peace of mind; it's there to handle the dynamic load. When you're driving up the ramp, the weight isn't perfectly distributed, and a little bit of momentum can put a lot of sudden stress on the metal.
Arched vs. Straight Ramps
This is where a lot of people get tripped up. Straight ramps are cheaper and easier to store, sure, but they have one major flaw when it comes to side-by-sides: the break-over angle. If you have a long-wheelbase machine or one that sits a bit lower to the ground, a straight ramp is going to cause the belly of your UTV to scrape—or worse, get stuck—right as the front wheels hit the truck bed.
Arched ramps are a total game-changer. They have a slight curve at the top that lessens the angle of the transition. It makes the whole loading process way smoother. You don't have to gun the engine to get over that "hump" at the top, which means you're less likely to accidentally drive through your back window. If you're loading into a lifted truck, arched ramps aren't just a luxury; they're pretty much a requirement.
The Length Factor and Your Tailgate
Length is probably the most underrated part of buying ramps. Everyone wants short ramps because they fit in the bed easily, but short ramps mean a steep incline. A steep incline is your worst enemy when it's raining, muddy, or if you're just feeling a bit shaky after a long day of riding.
A longer ramp (usually 7 to 9 feet) gives you a much shallower angle. This makes it easier to control your speed as you climb. Also, think about your tailgate. Most modern tailgates are tough, but they aren't indestructible. When you're halfway up the ramp, all that weight is concentrated on the cables and the hinges. Using longer ramps helps distribute that force a bit better. Some people even use tailgate supports just to be safe, which isn't a bad idea if you're hauling one of the bigger four-seater models.
Safety Straps Aren't Optional
I can't stress this enough: use the safety straps. Every decent set of side by side truck ramps comes with a pair of cam buckles or ratcheting straps. You're supposed to hook these to your bumper or hitch to keep the ramps from sliding backward as you drive up.
I've seen it happen—the rear tires of the UTV get a little too much traction, they push the ramp away from the truck, and the whole thing drops. It's a fast way to ruin a tailgate and potentially hurt yourself. It takes thirty seconds to click those straps in place. If the ramps you're looking at don't have a clear way to secure them to the truck, keep looking.
Material Choice: Aluminum vs. Steel
You're almost always going to want aluminum. Steel is strong, yeah, but it's heavy as lead and it rusts. If you're loading and unloading by yourself, you don't want to be manhandling 80-pound steel ramps every time you get to the trailhead.
Aluminum ramps are lightweight enough to toss in the back with one hand, and they won't turn into a pile of rust after one season of being exposed to road salt or rain. Plus, modern aluminum alloys are incredibly strong. Just make sure the rungs (the crossbars) are welded well. Look for wide rungs with some texture or "teeth" on them. If the rungs are smooth, you're going to have a hard time getting traction if your tires are caked in mud.
Width and Stance
Side-by-sides keep getting wider. It used to be that 50-inch machines were the standard, but now we're seeing 64-inch and even 72-inch wide monsters. You need to make sure your ramps are wide enough to accommodate your tires comfortably.
Some people prefer the extra-wide single ramps that cover the whole width of the truck, while others like the individual "runner" style. The runners are easier to store because you can tuck them on either side of the UTV once it's in the bed. However, if you go with runners, you have to be extra careful that they are spaced perfectly every time you load up. One little misalignment and you're dropping a tire off the side.
Storage and Portability
What do you do with the ramps once the UTV is loaded? If you have a short-bed truck, space is at a premium. This is where folding ramps come in handy. A 9-foot ramp that folds in half fits perfectly alongside the wheels of your machine.
Look for ramps with high-quality hinges. The hinge is usually the weakest point of a folding ramp, so you want to see heavy-duty hardware there. Some ramps even fold into a "tri-fold" design, which can be even more compact, though they can be a bit more of a hassle to set up if they're bulky.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
One of the biggest mistakes I see is people trying to load their side-by-side in 4WD on a high-traction surface. While it sounds safer, sometimes the sudden grip can cause the front end to pop up or the machine to lurch. I usually suggest staying in 4WD but being very, very light on the throttle. Steady momentum is the key. Don't stop halfway up.
Another mistake is not checking the tire pressure on the truck. If your truck tires are soft, the back of the truck will squat significantly as you climb the ramps, changing the angle and potentially causing the ramps to shift. Make sure everything is solid before you start your approach.
The Reality of Loading Solo
If you're usually riding solo, you might want to look into a "headache rack" or some kind of barrier for your back window. It's very easy to misjudge the distance when you're sitting in a tall UTV looking over a hood. A set of side by side truck ramps is great for getting you up there, but you still need a way to know when to stop.
Some guys use a piece of 4x4 lumber at the front of the bed as a "bump stop." It gives you a physical feel for when you're fully loaded without having to rely on a spotter. Just don't rely on it too heavily—you don't want to fly over the lumber and into the cab.
Wrapping It Up
At the end of the day, your ramps are the bridge between your expensive truck and your expensive toy. It's the one area where "saving a buck" can really backfire. Get something that's rated for the weight, long enough to keep the angle shallow, and made of aluminum so it lasts.
Once you find the right side by side truck ramps, do a couple of practice runs in your driveway. Get a feel for the throttle, make sure your straps are tight, and check that the width is right. Once you've got the process down, loading becomes a mindless two-minute task rather than a stressful event. Then, you can actually focus on what matters—getting out on the trail and getting some mud on those tires.